"There are decades when nothing happens; and there are weeks when decades happen.” -Lenin
Further to our earlier message, please be aware that we continue to advise British citizens currently in Bahrain to remain at home until further notice.
There are numerous demonstrations planned in coming days and unofficial road blocks have been established in various locations around the country. Violence is possible at any of these. The Embassy is closed until further notice.
* * *
Embassy Manama is advising all US citizens to remain in their residences until further notice due to the ongoing demonstrations and reports of violence throughout the past 24 hours. There is no indication that U.S. citizens are being threatened or targeted. Spontaneous demonstrations and violence are expected throughout the next several days.
Jake and I received these e-mails the day after our school was evacuated in the middle of the day as protestors cut off access to the financial district. Though the messages sound scary, I assure you we are safe.
The last two days we have gone to school in the morning, though with no students showing up we were sent home by 8. This morning the country seems eerily calm—everything is closed, no people on the streets. It seems to be the calm before the storm. The thought of a ‘storm’ is scary, but at this point it’s the general consensus here that something drastic needs to be done to end the lawlessness.
News is hard to come by, and unbiased news is almost nonexistent. Twitter is constantly updated though, and citizens want this to end for the sake of their country. They believe the protestors are not going about this the right way, that they don’t have a specific agenda. That being said, the arrival of the Saudi troops is not going down well either.
The Shi’a protestors have split into different factions, many realizing that this has gone too far. More radical protestors, many of them young men, are spending their time throwing rocks at Saudi troops and making barricades out of dumpsters, not realizing that the chance for diplomacy has slipped out of their hands.
Being here throughout this whole situation has brought the realization that Fox News isn’t the only absurd source of news in this world. CNN’s reports have received comments from Bahraini’s complaining about their biased nature; some of these comments have been removed by CNN, effectively doubling their message.
Since I began this post, both the US and UK Embassies have suggested that their nationals leave the country, and the King has declared a state of emergency for the country. All schools on the island have been closed indefinitely. We have been in close contact with school administrators and still feel completely safe. At this point we are going to see what happens today, and then decide if and when we should fly to the UK to wait out the storm.
I once again assure you we are safe and taking all necessary precautions.
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Saturday, February 19, 2011
The Pearl
Living through history – an opportunity not offered very often. A once in a lifetime opportunity. Emily and I witnessed history tonight when we traveled to the Pearl Roundabout in Manama, Bahrain. Don’t cringe, moan, or worry, we were completely safe and am currently sitting safe and sound in my flat.
We watched all day as tanks and police moved out of the roundabout, and then watched as protesters moved back in and retake the area they felt best fits their protesting thirst. It was amazing to witness and it was completely peaceful.
I stood next to a man who was nice enough to translate all of the shouting/chanting/response chants/singing. Parts of the speeches and chants included a thank you to American, UK, and Arab reporters (outside of Bahrain) for broadcasting and writing about the truth and not the “lies that have overrun Bahrain’s news.” We were smiled at, told thank you, and given bottles of water as we stood on the overpass and took pictures of the amazing scene unfolding below us. One chant being shouted over and over and touched our hearts deeply - “We are here Bahrain and we open our chests to the fire, for we shall keep Bahrain safe.”
Some chants included the English translation of, “Death to Khalifa!” – the Kahlifa family is the royal family. There is something lost in the translation because in Arabic they are simply asking for the end of the Khalifa rule. Khalifa is also the first name of the Bahrain Prime Minister, for whom most of the anger is directed.
We have had the luxury of meeting people from both sides. Both are passionate and determined groups of people which strongly believe they are fighting for a better Bahrain. Any of the arguments put forth by other side shows the end result not being anything except a stalemate. At each protest we have experienced smiles, pats on the back, generosity, and peace. Both encounters have left us talking and thinking for hours and hours. Its difficult for me to even write about what we witnessed, but listening to tens of thousands of people say they are here to keep their country safe is simply…moving.
Coming soon are pictures and videos from the Pearl Roundabout this evening. These are all anti-monarchy protesters, while the last video is from the pro-government yesterday. Purely amazing. Enjoy seeing a sample of what we have seen the past two days.
(VIDEOS TO COME LATER)
We watched all day as tanks and police moved out of the roundabout, and then watched as protesters moved back in and retake the area they felt best fits their protesting thirst. It was amazing to witness and it was completely peaceful.
I stood next to a man who was nice enough to translate all of the shouting/chanting/response chants/singing. Parts of the speeches and chants included a thank you to American, UK, and Arab reporters (outside of Bahrain) for broadcasting and writing about the truth and not the “lies that have overrun Bahrain’s news.” We were smiled at, told thank you, and given bottles of water as we stood on the overpass and took pictures of the amazing scene unfolding below us. One chant being shouted over and over and touched our hearts deeply - “We are here Bahrain and we open our chests to the fire, for we shall keep Bahrain safe.”
Some chants included the English translation of, “Death to Khalifa!” – the Kahlifa family is the royal family. There is something lost in the translation because in Arabic they are simply asking for the end of the Khalifa rule. Khalifa is also the first name of the Bahrain Prime Minister, for whom most of the anger is directed.
We have had the luxury of meeting people from both sides. Both are passionate and determined groups of people which strongly believe they are fighting for a better Bahrain. Any of the arguments put forth by other side shows the end result not being anything except a stalemate. At each protest we have experienced smiles, pats on the back, generosity, and peace. Both encounters have left us talking and thinking for hours and hours. Its difficult for me to even write about what we witnessed, but listening to tens of thousands of people say they are here to keep their country safe is simply…moving.
Coming soon are pictures and videos from the Pearl Roundabout this evening. These are all anti-monarchy protesters, while the last video is from the pro-government yesterday. Purely amazing. Enjoy seeing a sample of what we have seen the past two days.
(VIDEOS TO COME LATER)
Al Jazeera News
Al Jazeera can sum it up better than I can. Today the military backed out of the Pearl Roundabout leaving it to the "peaceful" protesters.
Tonight thousands and thousands are flocking to the roundabout to protest the monarchy which has ruled in Bahrain for more than 200 years.
Emily and I continued to remain safe and completely removed from all that is happening. Tomorrow is a national day of mourning for the those killed in the past week.
If you have questions about anything I would be happy to answer them the best that I can - just post a comment or drop me an email, jake.cushing@gmail.com.
Copy and paste the link to get the latest news from Bahrain!
http://english.aljazeera.net/news/middleeast/2011/02/201121914336940622.html
Tonight thousands and thousands are flocking to the roundabout to protest the monarchy which has ruled in Bahrain for more than 200 years.
Emily and I continued to remain safe and completely removed from all that is happening. Tomorrow is a national day of mourning for the those killed in the past week.
If you have questions about anything I would be happy to answer them the best that I can - just post a comment or drop me an email, jake.cushing@gmail.com.
Copy and paste the link to get the latest news from Bahrain!
http://english.aljazeera.net/news/middleeast/2011/02/201121914336940622.html
Revolution? In Bahrain? Where?
Revolution: (def.) a forcible overthrow of a government or social order in favor of a new system.
Living through history. I could curse one of my college professors who daily forced his students into discussions surrounding his guiding question on what comprises history. While a little over a year ago I would have pulled some answer out of the air to answer his question. It might have sounded impressive, but it would have had little validity. I feel confident now that I could help Dr. Becker realize that Jacob is an accomplished teacher/historian – for I am now being given the opportunity to live through history. Surely he would argue my point, but at least I can say, “I was there.”
My mentor teacher from my student teaching recently commented on here and reminded me how much we all joked about Bahrain becoming violent and me being unsafe. Several times I was warned to take any roadside shavings, even if the deal was just to good to pass. Naturally we all joked because, who in the world had ever heard of Bahrain? Where is Bahrain? Is it a new country? Small of course, but where is it? For years to come when asked where I first taught I will say Bahrain and will not be met with a puzzled look.
What’s been happening is extraordinary. Bahrain is small, very small, but this country is very good to its people. The same royal family has been ruling for over 200 years. While past monarchs might have possibly ruled unfairly, the current King Hamad rules with a just fist while encouraging advancement and development throughout all levels in Bahrain. Violence still continues, and more people are being killed each day. Things seem to be getting worse, but here in Juffair we might as well be living in a different country. There are a number of people against the government, but there is also a strong support group for the king and the current government.
Things are going well in this area. We are about 10-15 miles away from the Pearl (LuLu area) Roundabout. We even had school on Thursday, although we had only 15 total students in the high school. (All of the following pictures are from the pro-government rally)
Things did get serious Thursday evening with the attack on the "peaceful" protesters. It’s sad that the riot police attacked the camp - children were overcome with tear gas and taken to the hospital. Six people have died, being sprayed with shotgun bullets, or killed from quail guns. This "attack" has put people in shock and has sparked a bigger nationalist feeling amongst most Bahrainis, I believe.
The people protesting here are incredibly crazy. They have the best salaries, the lowest taxes, and the best government of any other country in the Middle East, but with Egypt, now every country feels as though they need to be "free" in their own sense of the word.
Yesterday was a terribly exciting day. At about noon (right after prayer time) there was a massive Pro-government rally at the Grand Mosque - RIGHT OUTSIDE OF OUR APARTMENT!!!!!! It was amazing to see nationalism in full swing in a divided country. Naturally we ran to our roof and took some pictures - then we became bored with the roof, and ran to the rally!!!
It was incredible...honking horns, chanting, screaming, pictures of the king, pictures of the prince, the prime minister. It was amazing. We stayed for about two hours and then made the walk back to our apartment. At 6pm the cars were still honking their horns, and traffic was at a standstill for 5 hours!!!!...Outside of our apartment!
There were also funerals yesterday for the protesters who were shot - more people were killed during the funeral march. The hospital near the main protest area has become overrun with injuries and casualties...they are calling for national help because they can't handle it. Doctors and nurses are having breakdowns from the pressure, and what they are seeing is unbelievable. Children are involved as well. Children of all ages follow their parents blindly on both sides. Its encouraging and disturbing at the same time.
Not sure what the next few weeks will hold, but I can be sure that I will be living through and greatly enjoying each day. Best wishes to all people in Bahrain and high hopes for things to be resolved in the coming weeks!
Living through history. I could curse one of my college professors who daily forced his students into discussions surrounding his guiding question on what comprises history. While a little over a year ago I would have pulled some answer out of the air to answer his question. It might have sounded impressive, but it would have had little validity. I feel confident now that I could help Dr. Becker realize that Jacob is an accomplished teacher/historian – for I am now being given the opportunity to live through history. Surely he would argue my point, but at least I can say, “I was there.”
My mentor teacher from my student teaching recently commented on here and reminded me how much we all joked about Bahrain becoming violent and me being unsafe. Several times I was warned to take any roadside shavings, even if the deal was just to good to pass. Naturally we all joked because, who in the world had ever heard of Bahrain? Where is Bahrain? Is it a new country? Small of course, but where is it? For years to come when asked where I first taught I will say Bahrain and will not be met with a puzzled look.
What’s been happening is extraordinary. Bahrain is small, very small, but this country is very good to its people. The same royal family has been ruling for over 200 years. While past monarchs might have possibly ruled unfairly, the current King Hamad rules with a just fist while encouraging advancement and development throughout all levels in Bahrain. Violence still continues, and more people are being killed each day. Things seem to be getting worse, but here in Juffair we might as well be living in a different country. There are a number of people against the government, but there is also a strong support group for the king and the current government.
Things are going well in this area. We are about 10-15 miles away from the Pearl (LuLu area) Roundabout. We even had school on Thursday, although we had only 15 total students in the high school. (All of the following pictures are from the pro-government rally)
Things did get serious Thursday evening with the attack on the "peaceful" protesters. It’s sad that the riot police attacked the camp - children were overcome with tear gas and taken to the hospital. Six people have died, being sprayed with shotgun bullets, or killed from quail guns. This "attack" has put people in shock and has sparked a bigger nationalist feeling amongst most Bahrainis, I believe.
The people protesting here are incredibly crazy. They have the best salaries, the lowest taxes, and the best government of any other country in the Middle East, but with Egypt, now every country feels as though they need to be "free" in their own sense of the word.
Yesterday was a terribly exciting day. At about noon (right after prayer time) there was a massive Pro-government rally at the Grand Mosque - RIGHT OUTSIDE OF OUR APARTMENT!!!!!! It was amazing to see nationalism in full swing in a divided country. Naturally we ran to our roof and took some pictures - then we became bored with the roof, and ran to the rally!!!
It was incredible...honking horns, chanting, screaming, pictures of the king, pictures of the prince, the prime minister. It was amazing. We stayed for about two hours and then made the walk back to our apartment. At 6pm the cars were still honking their horns, and traffic was at a standstill for 5 hours!!!!...Outside of our apartment!
There were also funerals yesterday for the protesters who were shot - more people were killed during the funeral march. The hospital near the main protest area has become overrun with injuries and casualties...they are calling for national help because they can't handle it. Doctors and nurses are having breakdowns from the pressure, and what they are seeing is unbelievable. Children are involved as well. Children of all ages follow their parents blindly on both sides. Its encouraging and disturbing at the same time.
Not sure what the next few weeks will hold, but I can be sure that I will be living through and greatly enjoying each day. Best wishes to all people in Bahrain and high hopes for things to be resolved in the coming weeks!
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
The Bahraini Revolution
Bahrain Day of Rage
I don’t have a twitter account and have never been on to follow twitter, but I couldn’t resist sharing this with all of you. The following is collection of Tweets taken from Bahrain citizens. My friend and I were both glued to her twitter account reading the new updates. This is a great way to get a foundation for what’s going on here.
Emily and I are completely safe. At the moment the protests are occurring far from our city of Juffair. Tension has been building in this country, especially within the past ten years. We are safe, and will continue to be safe. Do not worry!
As said, the following is collection of tweets from Bahrain citizens:
“Turmoil in Bahrain will be a much trickier situation for the U.S. since it's home to the 5th Fleet and Naval Forces Central”
“Its spreading!!!! Bahrain Main Square Now in Control of Shia Protesters.”
“Bahrain protesters move to take over central square in the capital; set up tents Thousands Bahraini Shia Protesters in pearl roundabout / one hour ago.”
“Mother prepare my coffin, I am going out to free my country" - women are chanting
“Saw your news on TV and the government is behaving exactly like our ex-gov. in Egypt; God be with you - prayers for your freedom”
“Never felt this way be4. We have taken over a roundabout, and for the 1st time we feel free!”
“Crowd growing by the minute, amazing women presence”
“1000's of protesters in full control of lulu roundabout and close by flyover waving Bahrain flags no police presence”
“Thousands of Bahrain protesters take over Pearl Sq, rename it The Nation's Square, chant "No Sunnis, no Shiites. We are all Bahrainis.”
“Thousands still flocking to Pearl Roundabout, fountains turned on”
“Crowds growing angry, slogans demanding immediate release of all political prisoners”
“We have caught up with the martyrs procession, ppl joinin from all different directions. Helicopters above”
“9 injured and taken to hospital after being attacked by riot police today morning with no reason at all”
“Some people are scattering others standing their grounds. Riot Police still firing tear gas.”
“Too much tear gas. Ppl crying”
“Ppl takin refuge in salmaniya hospital”
“Bahraini martyr just been attacked with tear gas, many injured”
“Revolution 1000s in Salmaniyia Hosp started walking w/ coffin of the young man killed yesterday police fired tear gas “
“Bahrain shows how it's done: shoot a protester in the back. When he dies, teargas his funeral. Then teargas the hospital.”
“Stop killing Bahrain protesters who r fighting for basic rights! Stop killing them. We r all brothers + sisters! Stop stop stop.”
“Confirmed news: ali mushaima, 27, dead. shot in the back during peaceful protest.”
“Footage appears to show police shooting into crowd. Can anyone translate/verify? Rubber or live ammo?”
“Heading to the hospital. Where crowds are gathering. Why r our govs willing to kill us, is the throne worth a good mans life?”
“Darkness falls across the land, the midnight hour is close in hand, will Bahrain wake to a new day, or will it be Feb14 again?!”
“Bahrain can no longer upload the photos & they took earlier today, internet is slow and keeps on disconnecting”
“news that the protests will continue during the night and will include holding flags and using cars horns”
“Main entrances to Sitra blocked. Took a back turn, heard explosions and saw tens of riot police headed my way, hard to turn.”
“One eye is gone in Sitra protest. He is bleeding massively from his eye”
“Protesters although dispersed are now being hunted inside the village of noaim”
“Bahrain should go out to dinner/rent a movie & relax.”
“About 20 injured citizens with women have been taken by ambulance to Salmaniya Hospital”
“different protests in Bahrain, no burn tires no Molotoves in 3 main governorates just peaceful protests”
“Government spreads many rumors about this revolution one of them is they are all Shitte go out against Sunnie”
“Protesters are grouping again in front of Bahrain Mall for the 4th time to protest again”
“We just got attacked & I ran to take cover. Gov are chasing people inside villages to divide the protest.”
“Protesters chanting, "we are not rioting, we are demanding our rights"
“Teargas. Some people scared shitless incl myself. Gunfire made us all run back”
“U.S. deeply concerned with Bahrain violence.”
__________
This is a news article from Bahrain:
“MANAMA, Bahrain — Skirmishes broke out early Monday between heavily armed police and scattered groups of young people in villages outside of the capital, as this strategically important nation in the Persian Gulf braced to see if the wave of unrest which has toppled two presidents would reach its sun-scorched shores.
Shops stayed closed and shuttered, the streets were clear of cars amid a heavy police presence, and there were calls for universities to close in anticipation of what organizers here have called Bahrain’s own “Day of Rage,” a demonstration modeled after the uprisings in Egypt and Tunisia.
“What happened in Egypt and Tunisia inspired us,” said Maryam al Khawaja, 23, with the Bahrain Center for Human Rights Monday. “For years, there has been hopelessness here. Are we ever really going to be able to change anything? With Egypt, there is a sense of empowerment, that the young people can do it.”
Ms. Khawaja was in the village of Nuwaidrat, on the island of Sitra, an industrial area outside the capital that is dotted with poor and crowded villages populated by Shiite Muslims who complain of discrimination in work, education and housing at the hands of the Sunni elite. The police blocked off the main road into the village and a helicopter hovered overhead.
In the early morning, as young men came out of the mosque, the two sides squared off. A large contingent of riot police fired tear gas and rubber bullets at the young men darting in and out of the alleys. Women joined in too, taunting the police, and then running. One young man was injured and was taken away in an ambulance bleeding from his eyes, nose and ears.
Others were bruised and wounded when police aimed their tear gas launchers directly at those gathered and fired at close range.
“I want my rights,” said Adel Mal Alla, 31, as he carried a Bahraini flag in one hand and in the other, a slice of onion, to help ease the effects of tear gas. “My life is very difficult.”
This tiny nation of about 1 million is among the most politically volatile in the Gulf, and also one of the most strategically important for the United States. It is the base for the United States Navy’s Fifth Fleet. But there has long been tension between the Sunni Muslim king, Hamad Bin Isa al-Khalifa, the royal family and ruling elites, and the approximately 70 percent of the local population which is Shiite. About half the residents of Bahrain are foreign workers.
For more than a year, Shiites in villages around the nation have held protests, burning tires in the road, demanding the release of dozens of political prisoners, including 25 being tried on charges plotting to overthrow the state, charges seen by the people here as part of a broad effort to silence the Shiite majority.
But the call to protest on Monday, coming on the heels of the momentous events elsewhere in the region, appeared to have rattled the leadership here into trying both enticement and fear. The king announced that the state was giving every Bahraini family the equivalent of $2,700 in cash and he filled the streets with heavily armed riot police.
Human rights workers were clearly concerned at the potential for violence. The king has built a security force here staffed almost exclusively with foreigners. So the police charged with putting down any protests are from Syria, Sudan, Yemen and other countries, drawn here by the offer of eventual citizenship.
As a result, there is no connection with the people, and therefore a greater likelihood they will not hesitate to open fire, said Mohammed Al-Maskati, head of the Bahrain Youth Society for Human Rights.
By midday, the early skirmishes had ended. The helicopters continued to hover overhead and the streets were unusually quiet as everyone braced for what may lay ahead.
“The people in Egypt joined together, they were one hand,” said Mahmoud Ahmed, 20, after he darted away from the police in the morning. “We have learned a lot from there. Here we will have to be one hand until we realize our objectives, too.”
____________
It’s a weird mood here today. Some people very upset, others shrugging the protest off assuming it will amount to nothing. The teachers in my school are mostly Egyptian, and while they have been upset, sad, and concerned for loved ones, in the past month, they don’t see a need for a “revolution” in Bahrain.
I’m ashamed to say it, but what an amazing experience to be here during these protests. Forty years from now Em and I can both say, “We were there when the Middle East demanded democracy and representation.” I may even be able to teach it in my classroom.
More protests have been planned, but the government here is using extreme measures to prevent anything violent from occurring. Today I had three students, the rest are either at home with their families watching the news or actively participating themselves. No where else will you find a tribal mentality of taking care of one another the way it is done here. Amazing.
Em and I are frequently thinking, “I can’t believe we are here during this, and I can’t believe that it’s happening down the road.”
Much love to all.
Jake
I don’t have a twitter account and have never been on to follow twitter, but I couldn’t resist sharing this with all of you. The following is collection of Tweets taken from Bahrain citizens. My friend and I were both glued to her twitter account reading the new updates. This is a great way to get a foundation for what’s going on here.
Emily and I are completely safe. At the moment the protests are occurring far from our city of Juffair. Tension has been building in this country, especially within the past ten years. We are safe, and will continue to be safe. Do not worry!
As said, the following is collection of tweets from Bahrain citizens:
“Turmoil in Bahrain will be a much trickier situation for the U.S. since it's home to the 5th Fleet and Naval Forces Central”
“Its spreading!!!! Bahrain Main Square Now in Control of Shia Protesters.”
“Bahrain protesters move to take over central square in the capital; set up tents Thousands Bahraini Shia Protesters in pearl roundabout / one hour ago.”
“Mother prepare my coffin, I am going out to free my country" - women are chanting
“Saw your news on TV and the government is behaving exactly like our ex-gov. in Egypt; God be with you - prayers for your freedom”
“Never felt this way be4. We have taken over a roundabout, and for the 1st time we feel free!”
“Crowd growing by the minute, amazing women presence”
“1000's of protesters in full control of lulu roundabout and close by flyover waving Bahrain flags no police presence”
“Thousands of Bahrain protesters take over Pearl Sq, rename it The Nation's Square, chant "No Sunnis, no Shiites. We are all Bahrainis.”
“Thousands still flocking to Pearl Roundabout, fountains turned on”
“Crowds growing angry, slogans demanding immediate release of all political prisoners”
“We have caught up with the martyrs procession, ppl joinin from all different directions. Helicopters above”
“9 injured and taken to hospital after being attacked by riot police today morning with no reason at all”
“Some people are scattering others standing their grounds. Riot Police still firing tear gas.”
“Too much tear gas. Ppl crying”
“Ppl takin refuge in salmaniya hospital”
“Bahraini martyr just been attacked with tear gas, many injured”
“Revolution 1000s in Salmaniyia Hosp started walking w/ coffin of the young man killed yesterday police fired tear gas “
“Bahrain shows how it's done: shoot a protester in the back. When he dies, teargas his funeral. Then teargas the hospital.”
“Stop killing Bahrain protesters who r fighting for basic rights! Stop killing them. We r all brothers + sisters! Stop stop stop.”
“Confirmed news: ali mushaima, 27, dead. shot in the back during peaceful protest.”
“Footage appears to show police shooting into crowd. Can anyone translate/verify? Rubber or live ammo?”
“Heading to the hospital. Where crowds are gathering. Why r our govs willing to kill us, is the throne worth a good mans life?”
“Darkness falls across the land, the midnight hour is close in hand, will Bahrain wake to a new day, or will it be Feb14 again?!”
“Bahrain can no longer upload the photos & they took earlier today, internet is slow and keeps on disconnecting”
“news that the protests will continue during the night and will include holding flags and using cars horns”
“Main entrances to Sitra blocked. Took a back turn, heard explosions and saw tens of riot police headed my way, hard to turn.”
“One eye is gone in Sitra protest. He is bleeding massively from his eye”
“Protesters although dispersed are now being hunted inside the village of noaim”
“Bahrain should go out to dinner/rent a movie & relax.”
“About 20 injured citizens with women have been taken by ambulance to Salmaniya Hospital”
“different protests in Bahrain, no burn tires no Molotoves in 3 main governorates just peaceful protests”
“Government spreads many rumors about this revolution one of them is they are all Shitte go out against Sunnie”
“Protesters are grouping again in front of Bahrain Mall for the 4th time to protest again”
“We just got attacked & I ran to take cover. Gov are chasing people inside villages to divide the protest.”
“Protesters chanting, "we are not rioting, we are demanding our rights"
“Teargas. Some people scared shitless incl myself. Gunfire made us all run back”
“U.S. deeply concerned with Bahrain violence.”
__________
This is a news article from Bahrain:
“MANAMA, Bahrain — Skirmishes broke out early Monday between heavily armed police and scattered groups of young people in villages outside of the capital, as this strategically important nation in the Persian Gulf braced to see if the wave of unrest which has toppled two presidents would reach its sun-scorched shores.
Shops stayed closed and shuttered, the streets were clear of cars amid a heavy police presence, and there were calls for universities to close in anticipation of what organizers here have called Bahrain’s own “Day of Rage,” a demonstration modeled after the uprisings in Egypt and Tunisia.
“What happened in Egypt and Tunisia inspired us,” said Maryam al Khawaja, 23, with the Bahrain Center for Human Rights Monday. “For years, there has been hopelessness here. Are we ever really going to be able to change anything? With Egypt, there is a sense of empowerment, that the young people can do it.”
Ms. Khawaja was in the village of Nuwaidrat, on the island of Sitra, an industrial area outside the capital that is dotted with poor and crowded villages populated by Shiite Muslims who complain of discrimination in work, education and housing at the hands of the Sunni elite. The police blocked off the main road into the village and a helicopter hovered overhead.
In the early morning, as young men came out of the mosque, the two sides squared off. A large contingent of riot police fired tear gas and rubber bullets at the young men darting in and out of the alleys. Women joined in too, taunting the police, and then running. One young man was injured and was taken away in an ambulance bleeding from his eyes, nose and ears.
Others were bruised and wounded when police aimed their tear gas launchers directly at those gathered and fired at close range.
“I want my rights,” said Adel Mal Alla, 31, as he carried a Bahraini flag in one hand and in the other, a slice of onion, to help ease the effects of tear gas. “My life is very difficult.”
This tiny nation of about 1 million is among the most politically volatile in the Gulf, and also one of the most strategically important for the United States. It is the base for the United States Navy’s Fifth Fleet. But there has long been tension between the Sunni Muslim king, Hamad Bin Isa al-Khalifa, the royal family and ruling elites, and the approximately 70 percent of the local population which is Shiite. About half the residents of Bahrain are foreign workers.
For more than a year, Shiites in villages around the nation have held protests, burning tires in the road, demanding the release of dozens of political prisoners, including 25 being tried on charges plotting to overthrow the state, charges seen by the people here as part of a broad effort to silence the Shiite majority.
But the call to protest on Monday, coming on the heels of the momentous events elsewhere in the region, appeared to have rattled the leadership here into trying both enticement and fear. The king announced that the state was giving every Bahraini family the equivalent of $2,700 in cash and he filled the streets with heavily armed riot police.
Human rights workers were clearly concerned at the potential for violence. The king has built a security force here staffed almost exclusively with foreigners. So the police charged with putting down any protests are from Syria, Sudan, Yemen and other countries, drawn here by the offer of eventual citizenship.
As a result, there is no connection with the people, and therefore a greater likelihood they will not hesitate to open fire, said Mohammed Al-Maskati, head of the Bahrain Youth Society for Human Rights.
By midday, the early skirmishes had ended. The helicopters continued to hover overhead and the streets were unusually quiet as everyone braced for what may lay ahead.
“The people in Egypt joined together, they were one hand,” said Mahmoud Ahmed, 20, after he darted away from the police in the morning. “We have learned a lot from there. Here we will have to be one hand until we realize our objectives, too.”
____________
It’s a weird mood here today. Some people very upset, others shrugging the protest off assuming it will amount to nothing. The teachers in my school are mostly Egyptian, and while they have been upset, sad, and concerned for loved ones, in the past month, they don’t see a need for a “revolution” in Bahrain.
I’m ashamed to say it, but what an amazing experience to be here during these protests. Forty years from now Em and I can both say, “We were there when the Middle East demanded democracy and representation.” I may even be able to teach it in my classroom.
More protests have been planned, but the government here is using extreme measures to prevent anything violent from occurring. Today I had three students, the rest are either at home with their families watching the news or actively participating themselves. No where else will you find a tribal mentality of taking care of one another the way it is done here. Amazing.
Em and I are frequently thinking, “I can’t believe we are here during this, and I can’t believe that it’s happening down the road.”
Much love to all.
Jake
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
I'll be Home for Christmas
As I closed down my classroom for the holiday break and as my students swiftly exited my classroom I was filled with excitement because I was going to be home for Christmas. It wasn’t an easy decision to make, but like other decisions we make it was a happy one.
Teaching in Bahrain is in every way astonishing and not ever do Emily and I feel as though we have made a wrong decision for our lives. As well as we have been treated and as amazing as the students are we often feel as though it was the perfect decision! This, however, doesn’t excuse the fact that down deep in our hearts Emily and I are both “home-birds” as Mrs. Meyer will confirm. We sat for MONTHS and worked at many attempts to decide where we both would spend the holidays. We looked at tropical vacations, staying in England, coming home, Indonesia, Africa, Germany, Italy…anywhere you could imagine was just waiting for us to visit; however, we finally (after many sessions of mind changing and strong worded discussions) decided we would surprise our families for the Christmas season.
The last day of classes before the break Emily was given multiple gifts from her students and many cards. Me, being the well-liked strict high school teacher that I am received only two cards from two very sweet students. I wasn’t jealous…maybe a little, but needless to say we were greeted with many happy wishes to enjoy our Christmas and New Year’s. When we left, Bahrain was decorated for Christmas and just begging for a few inches of snow to set the mood – odd in a Muslim country, but welcoming to us to say the least. Christmas trees decorated with Santa Clause ornaments and colorful lights covered the lobby to our apartment. Every store we entered had either a Christmas tree or some variety of Christmas decorations. Even the Grand Mosque had a Christmas tree…kidding of course, but we were very much at home with the country putting up decorations just for us. The apartment was decorated nicely (by Emily of course) with a nice fireplace, stockings hung with care, and a nice tiny tree with ornaments and lights. We were prepared to go home and enjoy the happiest time of the year with our amazing families.
Our flight was at four in the morning…not the best time of the morning for but we managed. Our first stop on the journey home was England to see Emily’s family. We arrived at the airport and were greeted with smiles and hugs from Emily’s nanny and granddad. On the way to their house in the small village of Wokingham I gazed upon the beautiful, gray, English countryside fixed with rolling hills of green and sheep! I loved it!
Emily knew her way around of course which provided for a nice, easy to get along with tour guide for the one day we spent in London. Before London, Em’s grandparents showed up around Wokingham and the first stop was the church where Emily’s parents were married, and where her sister Georgina was christened. It was a beautiful church, which seemed as though it should be a national landmark, and probably would be in the states, but today it is still used a church. Very appropriately across the street was an upscale pub where wedding receptions and christening parties are often thrown.
That evening Em’s nanny and granddad took us to a pub at my request. Being that it was my first time in England I wanted very much to have my first English bitter in an English pub. Em’s granddad obliged and bought my first pint in a pub, to which I quickly returned the favor. The pub we shared a few drinks in was the hangout that Em’s grandparents frequented when they were young whippersnappers. It was fascinating listening to the history that two of them had in this pub, which has changed quite a bit over the years, but they attested to the fact that it still had the same welcoming feeling. We forgot to take a picture, but in the summer when we stop through England again Em’s granddad promised another bitter and a picture.
Dating Emily for some time now has left me being accustomed to drinking at least four cups of tea a day. This helped me greatly as I visited with Emily’s family. We stayed with her granddad and nanny, but we also stayed with Emily’s grandmother for a few days. Teatime was a necessity and I am quite proud to say that I made the tea one day to thunderous applause from her grandma for being a “good” American.
For as long as I can remember I’ve wanted to travel to England. It was worth the wait. We only spent one day in London, but it was packed with us trying to see all that we could. We got off the train and it was great to be with Emily in her country and to be in a place I’ve wanted to be for so long. The train station was immaculate and as soon as we stepped out Emily shielded my eyes from seeing Big Ben and Parliament as we walked down the Thames River towards Tower Bridge. The entire walk is filled with clouds and a grey hue, but as soon as we arrive at Tower Bridge to have lunch the clouds parted and allowed the sun to shine directly on the bridge to provide the perfect opportunity for a picture.
We walk across and then head back down to parliament on the other side of the river. I’m in paradise as we set eyes on Big Ben. The architecture is awe inspiring as we walk around the massive structure covered with details that you can’t imagine. Along our walk we spot several of the traditional English phone booths that seem to always be empty.
We take the train to Buckingham Palace. The flag was flying so the Queen was in – Emily would swear that Queen waved to her. We have to agree to disagree with that one. As the sun goes down Emily and I decide we want to see a show and buy tickets. Before the show Emily must, MUST, MUUSSTTT, make a shopping stop to Primark. In America, there is no equivalent in Emily’s eyes. Its three stories of clothing, shoes, jewelry…all cheap. Emily was in paradise, as I felt as though I was on the threshold of hell. Ok, it wasn’t that bad, but I was excited to get out of there. I gave Emily a 45 minute time limit to which left her drenched in sweat because she was so flustered. She left with a smile on her face and two bags full of cheap, but well made clothes.
We arrive to the theater and it was beautiful. “Her Majesty’s Theater” was where we thoroughly enjoyed seeing The Phantom of the Opera. After the show we took the train back to Waterloo Station and walked passed Parliament again. Perfect ending to a perfect day spent with Emily in London. We took the train back to her grandma’s, ate a very late dinner that her grandma made for us, and slept like logs. Emily’s family took care of us to no end and it was two of the most comfortable homes to which I’ve had the privilege of staying.
A day or so later we boarded the plane to come home and surprise our families. It was an amazing holiday with our families who we had missed dearly. Tomorrow we board the plane back to Bahrain and begin teaching again on January third where more stories will likely occur in the coming six months left in Bahrain.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year’s!
Jake
Teaching in Bahrain is in every way astonishing and not ever do Emily and I feel as though we have made a wrong decision for our lives. As well as we have been treated and as amazing as the students are we often feel as though it was the perfect decision! This, however, doesn’t excuse the fact that down deep in our hearts Emily and I are both “home-birds” as Mrs. Meyer will confirm. We sat for MONTHS and worked at many attempts to decide where we both would spend the holidays. We looked at tropical vacations, staying in England, coming home, Indonesia, Africa, Germany, Italy…anywhere you could imagine was just waiting for us to visit; however, we finally (after many sessions of mind changing and strong worded discussions) decided we would surprise our families for the Christmas season.
The last day of classes before the break Emily was given multiple gifts from her students and many cards. Me, being the well-liked strict high school teacher that I am received only two cards from two very sweet students. I wasn’t jealous…maybe a little, but needless to say we were greeted with many happy wishes to enjoy our Christmas and New Year’s. When we left, Bahrain was decorated for Christmas and just begging for a few inches of snow to set the mood – odd in a Muslim country, but welcoming to us to say the least. Christmas trees decorated with Santa Clause ornaments and colorful lights covered the lobby to our apartment. Every store we entered had either a Christmas tree or some variety of Christmas decorations. Even the Grand Mosque had a Christmas tree…kidding of course, but we were very much at home with the country putting up decorations just for us. The apartment was decorated nicely (by Emily of course) with a nice fireplace, stockings hung with care, and a nice tiny tree with ornaments and lights. We were prepared to go home and enjoy the happiest time of the year with our amazing families.
Our flight was at four in the morning…not the best time of the morning for but we managed. Our first stop on the journey home was England to see Emily’s family. We arrived at the airport and were greeted with smiles and hugs from Emily’s nanny and granddad. On the way to their house in the small village of Wokingham I gazed upon the beautiful, gray, English countryside fixed with rolling hills of green and sheep! I loved it!
Emily knew her way around of course which provided for a nice, easy to get along with tour guide for the one day we spent in London. Before London, Em’s grandparents showed up around Wokingham and the first stop was the church where Emily’s parents were married, and where her sister Georgina was christened. It was a beautiful church, which seemed as though it should be a national landmark, and probably would be in the states, but today it is still used a church. Very appropriately across the street was an upscale pub where wedding receptions and christening parties are often thrown.
That evening Em’s nanny and granddad took us to a pub at my request. Being that it was my first time in England I wanted very much to have my first English bitter in an English pub. Em’s granddad obliged and bought my first pint in a pub, to which I quickly returned the favor. The pub we shared a few drinks in was the hangout that Em’s grandparents frequented when they were young whippersnappers. It was fascinating listening to the history that two of them had in this pub, which has changed quite a bit over the years, but they attested to the fact that it still had the same welcoming feeling. We forgot to take a picture, but in the summer when we stop through England again Em’s granddad promised another bitter and a picture.
Dating Emily for some time now has left me being accustomed to drinking at least four cups of tea a day. This helped me greatly as I visited with Emily’s family. We stayed with her granddad and nanny, but we also stayed with Emily’s grandmother for a few days. Teatime was a necessity and I am quite proud to say that I made the tea one day to thunderous applause from her grandma for being a “good” American.
For as long as I can remember I’ve wanted to travel to England. It was worth the wait. We only spent one day in London, but it was packed with us trying to see all that we could. We got off the train and it was great to be with Emily in her country and to be in a place I’ve wanted to be for so long. The train station was immaculate and as soon as we stepped out Emily shielded my eyes from seeing Big Ben and Parliament as we walked down the Thames River towards Tower Bridge. The entire walk is filled with clouds and a grey hue, but as soon as we arrive at Tower Bridge to have lunch the clouds parted and allowed the sun to shine directly on the bridge to provide the perfect opportunity for a picture.
We walk across and then head back down to parliament on the other side of the river. I’m in paradise as we set eyes on Big Ben. The architecture is awe inspiring as we walk around the massive structure covered with details that you can’t imagine. Along our walk we spot several of the traditional English phone booths that seem to always be empty.
We take the train to Buckingham Palace. The flag was flying so the Queen was in – Emily would swear that Queen waved to her. We have to agree to disagree with that one. As the sun goes down Emily and I decide we want to see a show and buy tickets. Before the show Emily must, MUST, MUUSSTTT, make a shopping stop to Primark. In America, there is no equivalent in Emily’s eyes. Its three stories of clothing, shoes, jewelry…all cheap. Emily was in paradise, as I felt as though I was on the threshold of hell. Ok, it wasn’t that bad, but I was excited to get out of there. I gave Emily a 45 minute time limit to which left her drenched in sweat because she was so flustered. She left with a smile on her face and two bags full of cheap, but well made clothes.
We arrive to the theater and it was beautiful. “Her Majesty’s Theater” was where we thoroughly enjoyed seeing The Phantom of the Opera. After the show we took the train back to Waterloo Station and walked passed Parliament again. Perfect ending to a perfect day spent with Emily in London. We took the train back to her grandma’s, ate a very late dinner that her grandma made for us, and slept like logs. Emily’s family took care of us to no end and it was two of the most comfortable homes to which I’ve had the privilege of staying.
A day or so later we boarded the plane to come home and surprise our families. It was an amazing holiday with our families who we had missed dearly. Tomorrow we board the plane back to Bahrain and begin teaching again on January third where more stories will likely occur in the coming six months left in Bahrain.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year’s!
Jake
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Day 3 - 5 INDIA!!! (Emily)
You think India, you think the Taj Mahal. To the Indians we met, we were wasting our time venturing into Agra to see the monument, but, c’mon, how could we not?! On Tuesday we greeted 4am as well as 4am can be greeted and headed to the train station for the 3 hour ride to Agra. Our tickets had been organized by someone else, so we didn’t exactly know what part of the train we had signed up for. It turned out that the Indian train, much like the Indian society, showed great disparity between classes. The cheap tickets put you into the sardine can, much like the buses and metro. There was a middle class which was nicer, though had no a/c, so it was freezing. Finally there was the a/c sleeper car, not luxury, but where we accidentally sat. A little bribe to the conductor and we were allowed to stay. I think you can guess why Allison was excited about this part of the trip.
When we arrived things were pretty easy—turns out the city runs on tourism, so they greeted us with open arms. We got another personal tour for the day (I know, so spoilt), and first stop was the Taj. Now, please excuse the small history lesson coming up; I promise it’s interesting. Agra is known as the city of love, namely because at it’s heart is the Taj Mahal. The building was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan to honor his third wife. Of his three marriages, the third was the only one that was a love marriage and not an arranged one. When his wife was dying in labor, she made him promise three things—to never marry again, to do something else I can’t remember, and finally to build her a beautiful tomb to remember her by. Immediately work began on the Taj Mahal, and 22 years later was complete. It wasn’t quite happily ever after though. The emperor wanted to build a matching smaller tomb across the river in black for himself, but his son thought he was spending too much money so banished him to the Agra Fort. The emperor was under house arrest until his death, but luckily he had a view of the Taj Mahal from the fort. When he died, he was buried in the beautiful tomb next to his wife—tres romatique.
The taxi pulled up a short walk away from the Taj Mahal—no cars are permitted close to it so as not to taint the sparkling white marble with pollution. We walked up through one of the three entrance gates, a spectacle in itself. All four of us were anxious as we got closer and closer to this marvel, constantly wondering when we would actually see it. Then, suddenly, there it was. Like a painting it appeared through the archway of the gate, hardly distinguishable from the pale sky, yet glowing a stunning white. It didn’t get less awe-inspiring as we walked slowly toward it either. After umpteen photo opportunities we found our way to the entrance and put on our little red booties. Only the tourists had to wear the booties—Indian visitors (which made up about 80% of the guests) only had to take off their shoes. Maybe we have dirtier feet. Anyway, we climbed the stairs and were able to look at the monument up close. I thought that the building was impressive from far away, but I must say the close-up view was even more incredible. The entire tomb is covered with intricate flower designs. The marble is carved out and colored stones are shaved to be fit right into the etchings….over the WHOLE THING. It was absolutely beautiful. The inside seemed deceivingly small, but perfect in its simplicity where the two tombs lay. Needless to say, very worth the trip.
The rest of the day was spent exploring the other beauties Agra had to offer—more tombs and stops at touristy restaurants and craft places. As we came out of lunch, there was a man sitting Indian-style (haha) on the ground with a basket in front of him and a recorder in his hand. A real live Indian snake charmer! He convinced a slightly cautious Jake and Kent to sit on either side of him and immediately started on Kent. He tried to put a small snake around Kent’s neck; as Kent was quickly backing away the charmer put the snake to his face to prove it was harmless—not that this changed the opinions of Kent or Jake in any way. No sooner was the snake around a terrified Kent’s neck than the charmer whipped out his handy basket. Cobra time. The cobra popped up, hissing and spitting all the way, and Kent flew several feet into the air. As you can imagine this provided significant entertainment to Allison and I, and even more when the whole thing was repeated with an equally petrified Jake.
Day 4
After a couple of hours sleep back at the hostel we hopped on an early flight to Nagpur, a city in the middle of India where Kent’s friend Megan is living and working at a school. Megan picked us up at the airport and we drove through a clean, GREEN city to the compound where she is living. After a quick cuppa we were off again, this time to Pench, a tiger reservation two hours away. Pench is part of the jungle where Rudyard Kipling based the Jungle Book—we were off to spot some tigers. After a bumpy ride with several cow stops we entered the reservation and found our resort. We were the only guests for the night, so the service was incredible. When we stepped out of the car four men came immediately to take our bags and put them in our jungle bungalow. The resort was beautiful in the sunshine; itself part of the jungle with hammocks and a tree house and our own bungalow on stilts. We put down our bags and sat on the back porch as tea and biscuits were brought to us. After a delicious lunch we headed off on our first safari. As we waited at the entrance of the reservation in our tiered jeep, we spoke to a British couple on their eleventh tiger-less safari. It wasn’t looking good.
Our first monkey sighting was a very exciting experience. By the 423rd monkey sighting the others were getting a little weary, but I was still snapping away. I have literally 504 photographs of monkeys. Anyway, monkeys and spotted deer dominated the jungle, and they would come right up close to the jeep, seemingly unruffled by our presence. Amazing. We were bumping along for about an hour when we saw two stopped vehicles in the distance, beckoning us on. We all became giddy with excitement for the potential tiger. We came up to the other jeeps and everyone was standing, silent but clearly aroused by something they were pointing to in the distance.
Two deer. (Que fake tiger spotting picture)
These false alarms happened more that once, and Jake, the boy who cried tiger, got a kick out of yelling “TIGER!” and pointing excitedly into the trees. Then it happened. We pulled up to a stopped jeep, shushing us and pointing to the right. We immediately stood up and looked and there, through the trees, was our tiger. Huge, majestic. This is one time I can say that I regret being so concerned with photographs, and my experience with the tiger was spent partially behind the lens, but nonetheless it was extraordinary. Plus I managed to snap a couple of photos as proof that it did happen.
After our REAL tiger spotting, we came back to the resort and were greeting with tea and biscuits around the fire. It was at that moment I wondered how I ever got this lucky. I’m barely into my twenties and I had just gone on a tiger safari in the Indian jungle. I’m not sure it’s fair but I am so grateful I had the opportunity. After our little break the owner of the resort offered to take us into the village where some of the employees worked, so we hopped back in the jeep. It was dark when we got to the village. The cook had a small house all made of clay, lit on the outside by a fire and on the inside with a single light bulb. Each house in the village was like this; not much, but enough. And they were kept so neatly that the pride shone through even in the night. The cows were tied up in the front and the chickens cooped at the side. The children huddled by the fire, and the boys ran through the streets setting off fireworks—one of which we almost drove over.
The owner then decided we should go on a night safari because he had heard a rumor that there was a pack of wild dogs on the move. Two hours and no wild dogs later we were back at the resort having our faces overstuffed with tandoori chicken and all the trimmings, being made right in front of us. It’s a rough life.
5:30 am—morning safari. Cold. No tigers. Allison took a nice nap though. We were just getting excited because the driver heard a roar when the heavens opened. Literally. It was absolutely pouring with rain. We took cover under some trees, but after 45 minutes of waiting it out, it was just too much so we headed back to the resort and then back into Nagpur.
Day 5
Megan has been living in a compound in Nagpur since May. The compound belongs to the owner of the Nav Jeevan School, a school and hostel for slum children. The compound has a beautiful house and gardens with servants for all the family members, but the slum is just around the corner. Quite incredible. The owner’s mother was the one who created the school. At first, it was an orphanage for the babies who weren’t cared for at the church nearby. A Dutch woman adopted two baby girls, and years later was so thankful that she wanted to give back. Her “giving back” was in the form of enough money to start a school to support what is now more than 200 children.
Megan took us into the school and past the slums on the way. The slums were like something out of a movie—interesting though, that some of the shacks had no real walls, but had a satellite and a t.v.
The school was wonderful and the children were breathtaking. The second we walked in, Jake and Kent into the boys dormitory and Allison and I into the girls, the children hugging and kissing us. They couldn’t get enough of our attention, grabbing our hands, asking us questions, requesting we sing and dance for them (we taught them the Cupid Shuffle). Their spirits were contagious. These children had come from nothing and blossomed into greatness, simply because they were given meals and a roof.
Later in the evening they put together an impromptu show for us. There were about 150 children in a small room, all quiet when they needed to be. I immediately thought of my 30 children in Bahrain and how they wouldn’t be able to keep quiet for 2 seconds. The children sang for us, danced, and even pulled us on stage with them. Their talent was astounding.
We all found precious little ones that we wanted to smuggle in my purse and take home with us. Jake’s was a five year old boy named Nendish. He was very sweet and everyone there seemed to be looking out for him. Without being able to speak any English, he taught Jake the ‘secret handshake’. This boy was all smiles and laugher, though not even a year ago he was in the slums, stealing from his mother and gambling in the streets. At five years old, he’s finally starting his childhood.
I think the whole evening deeply affected each of us on some level. I couldn’t get over the fact that these children were once begging on the street, addicted to tobacco and someone decided to give them food, shelter, and education. Someone gave them a home. And suddenly, these children in rags, bloomed. It just goes to show how far simplicities, necessities, can take a person. I’m not going to harp on any more, but I can say that in a word, we were thankful.
If you want to find out more about the Nav Jeevan School, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RWWOQ-H8lM. After you watch that, there are other links to their talent show (which I would recommend watching).
Day 6
On our final day we flew back to Dehli and, predictably, decided we hadn’t purchased enough touristy crap so we went a little spending mad. Don’t be surprised if you receive an elephant for Christmas—we bought cloth elephants, stone elephants, wood elephants, marble elephants…..
What an experience! It was a tiring week, but none of us would change a thing.
When we arrived things were pretty easy—turns out the city runs on tourism, so they greeted us with open arms. We got another personal tour for the day (I know, so spoilt), and first stop was the Taj. Now, please excuse the small history lesson coming up; I promise it’s interesting. Agra is known as the city of love, namely because at it’s heart is the Taj Mahal. The building was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan to honor his third wife. Of his three marriages, the third was the only one that was a love marriage and not an arranged one. When his wife was dying in labor, she made him promise three things—to never marry again, to do something else I can’t remember, and finally to build her a beautiful tomb to remember her by. Immediately work began on the Taj Mahal, and 22 years later was complete. It wasn’t quite happily ever after though. The emperor wanted to build a matching smaller tomb across the river in black for himself, but his son thought he was spending too much money so banished him to the Agra Fort. The emperor was under house arrest until his death, but luckily he had a view of the Taj Mahal from the fort. When he died, he was buried in the beautiful tomb next to his wife—tres romatique.
The taxi pulled up a short walk away from the Taj Mahal—no cars are permitted close to it so as not to taint the sparkling white marble with pollution. We walked up through one of the three entrance gates, a spectacle in itself. All four of us were anxious as we got closer and closer to this marvel, constantly wondering when we would actually see it. Then, suddenly, there it was. Like a painting it appeared through the archway of the gate, hardly distinguishable from the pale sky, yet glowing a stunning white. It didn’t get less awe-inspiring as we walked slowly toward it either. After umpteen photo opportunities we found our way to the entrance and put on our little red booties. Only the tourists had to wear the booties—Indian visitors (which made up about 80% of the guests) only had to take off their shoes. Maybe we have dirtier feet. Anyway, we climbed the stairs and were able to look at the monument up close. I thought that the building was impressive from far away, but I must say the close-up view was even more incredible. The entire tomb is covered with intricate flower designs. The marble is carved out and colored stones are shaved to be fit right into the etchings….over the WHOLE THING. It was absolutely beautiful. The inside seemed deceivingly small, but perfect in its simplicity where the two tombs lay. Needless to say, very worth the trip.
The rest of the day was spent exploring the other beauties Agra had to offer—more tombs and stops at touristy restaurants and craft places. As we came out of lunch, there was a man sitting Indian-style (haha) on the ground with a basket in front of him and a recorder in his hand. A real live Indian snake charmer! He convinced a slightly cautious Jake and Kent to sit on either side of him and immediately started on Kent. He tried to put a small snake around Kent’s neck; as Kent was quickly backing away the charmer put the snake to his face to prove it was harmless—not that this changed the opinions of Kent or Jake in any way. No sooner was the snake around a terrified Kent’s neck than the charmer whipped out his handy basket. Cobra time. The cobra popped up, hissing and spitting all the way, and Kent flew several feet into the air. As you can imagine this provided significant entertainment to Allison and I, and even more when the whole thing was repeated with an equally petrified Jake.
Day 4
After a couple of hours sleep back at the hostel we hopped on an early flight to Nagpur, a city in the middle of India where Kent’s friend Megan is living and working at a school. Megan picked us up at the airport and we drove through a clean, GREEN city to the compound where she is living. After a quick cuppa we were off again, this time to Pench, a tiger reservation two hours away. Pench is part of the jungle where Rudyard Kipling based the Jungle Book—we were off to spot some tigers. After a bumpy ride with several cow stops we entered the reservation and found our resort. We were the only guests for the night, so the service was incredible. When we stepped out of the car four men came immediately to take our bags and put them in our jungle bungalow. The resort was beautiful in the sunshine; itself part of the jungle with hammocks and a tree house and our own bungalow on stilts. We put down our bags and sat on the back porch as tea and biscuits were brought to us. After a delicious lunch we headed off on our first safari. As we waited at the entrance of the reservation in our tiered jeep, we spoke to a British couple on their eleventh tiger-less safari. It wasn’t looking good.
Our first monkey sighting was a very exciting experience. By the 423rd monkey sighting the others were getting a little weary, but I was still snapping away. I have literally 504 photographs of monkeys. Anyway, monkeys and spotted deer dominated the jungle, and they would come right up close to the jeep, seemingly unruffled by our presence. Amazing. We were bumping along for about an hour when we saw two stopped vehicles in the distance, beckoning us on. We all became giddy with excitement for the potential tiger. We came up to the other jeeps and everyone was standing, silent but clearly aroused by something they were pointing to in the distance.
Two deer. (Que fake tiger spotting picture)
These false alarms happened more that once, and Jake, the boy who cried tiger, got a kick out of yelling “TIGER!” and pointing excitedly into the trees. Then it happened. We pulled up to a stopped jeep, shushing us and pointing to the right. We immediately stood up and looked and there, through the trees, was our tiger. Huge, majestic. This is one time I can say that I regret being so concerned with photographs, and my experience with the tiger was spent partially behind the lens, but nonetheless it was extraordinary. Plus I managed to snap a couple of photos as proof that it did happen.
After our REAL tiger spotting, we came back to the resort and were greeting with tea and biscuits around the fire. It was at that moment I wondered how I ever got this lucky. I’m barely into my twenties and I had just gone on a tiger safari in the Indian jungle. I’m not sure it’s fair but I am so grateful I had the opportunity. After our little break the owner of the resort offered to take us into the village where some of the employees worked, so we hopped back in the jeep. It was dark when we got to the village. The cook had a small house all made of clay, lit on the outside by a fire and on the inside with a single light bulb. Each house in the village was like this; not much, but enough. And they were kept so neatly that the pride shone through even in the night. The cows were tied up in the front and the chickens cooped at the side. The children huddled by the fire, and the boys ran through the streets setting off fireworks—one of which we almost drove over.
The owner then decided we should go on a night safari because he had heard a rumor that there was a pack of wild dogs on the move. Two hours and no wild dogs later we were back at the resort having our faces overstuffed with tandoori chicken and all the trimmings, being made right in front of us. It’s a rough life.
5:30 am—morning safari. Cold. No tigers. Allison took a nice nap though. We were just getting excited because the driver heard a roar when the heavens opened. Literally. It was absolutely pouring with rain. We took cover under some trees, but after 45 minutes of waiting it out, it was just too much so we headed back to the resort and then back into Nagpur.
Day 5
Megan has been living in a compound in Nagpur since May. The compound belongs to the owner of the Nav Jeevan School, a school and hostel for slum children. The compound has a beautiful house and gardens with servants for all the family members, but the slum is just around the corner. Quite incredible. The owner’s mother was the one who created the school. At first, it was an orphanage for the babies who weren’t cared for at the church nearby. A Dutch woman adopted two baby girls, and years later was so thankful that she wanted to give back. Her “giving back” was in the form of enough money to start a school to support what is now more than 200 children.
Megan took us into the school and past the slums on the way. The slums were like something out of a movie—interesting though, that some of the shacks had no real walls, but had a satellite and a t.v.
The school was wonderful and the children were breathtaking. The second we walked in, Jake and Kent into the boys dormitory and Allison and I into the girls, the children hugging and kissing us. They couldn’t get enough of our attention, grabbing our hands, asking us questions, requesting we sing and dance for them (we taught them the Cupid Shuffle). Their spirits were contagious. These children had come from nothing and blossomed into greatness, simply because they were given meals and a roof.
Later in the evening they put together an impromptu show for us. There were about 150 children in a small room, all quiet when they needed to be. I immediately thought of my 30 children in Bahrain and how they wouldn’t be able to keep quiet for 2 seconds. The children sang for us, danced, and even pulled us on stage with them. Their talent was astounding.
We all found precious little ones that we wanted to smuggle in my purse and take home with us. Jake’s was a five year old boy named Nendish. He was very sweet and everyone there seemed to be looking out for him. Without being able to speak any English, he taught Jake the ‘secret handshake’. This boy was all smiles and laugher, though not even a year ago he was in the slums, stealing from his mother and gambling in the streets. At five years old, he’s finally starting his childhood.
I think the whole evening deeply affected each of us on some level. I couldn’t get over the fact that these children were once begging on the street, addicted to tobacco and someone decided to give them food, shelter, and education. Someone gave them a home. And suddenly, these children in rags, bloomed. It just goes to show how far simplicities, necessities, can take a person. I’m not going to harp on any more, but I can say that in a word, we were thankful.
If you want to find out more about the Nav Jeevan School, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RWWOQ-H8lM. After you watch that, there are other links to their talent show (which I would recommend watching).
Day 6
On our final day we flew back to Dehli and, predictably, decided we hadn’t purchased enough touristy crap so we went a little spending mad. Don’t be surprised if you receive an elephant for Christmas—we bought cloth elephants, stone elephants, wood elephants, marble elephants…..
What an experience! It was a tiring week, but none of us would change a thing.
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